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Older Italy hands say you don't come to Venice to eat. Yet alongside the tourist traps isa slew of newcomers that care about value arid ~uality Some are revamped traditional bacari (wine bars), offering seafood cicheti (bar snacks) and hot meals, but with wine lists a notch more sophisticated than in the days when old men sat quaffing from the barrel. Others are full-on restaurants with a creative twist. For the traditional wine-bar, Ca' d'Oro-Alla Vedova (00 39 041 528 5324, closed Thurs and Sun), Cannaregio 3912, Ramo Ca' d Oro, is a marvellous place not far from the Cothic Ca' d'Oro museum. Where the latter is all florid finials, the bacaro of the same name is rustic, with wood, marble and mirror decor littie changed since its late 14h century foundation. Food's good, too: risotto al nero di seppia (with squid ink), fried artichokes, and the best polpette (meatbalis) in Venice. Book days ahead for Alle Testiere (041 522 7220, closed Sun), Cannaregio 5801 a, Calle del Mondo Novo. This tiny restaurant on a busy lane leading out of piazza Santa Maria Formosa is always packed because there are only eight tables and because chef Bruno Gavagnin is a genius, taking the freshest fish and seafood from the Rialto market and cooking it to perfection, with an occasional exotic twist (say ginger or coriander). Swordfish might come with olives, capers and a fennel seed garnish; but the best spaghetti alle vongole in Venice is done by the book, with olive oil, garlic and parsley Sommelier Luca de Vita is a fount of knowledge. Local aperitivo is spritz al bitter pronounced "spreets al beeter" a mix of white wine, Campari and seltzer (soda water), served with a twist of lemon. Try it at Da Bonifaclo (041522 750, closed Thur), Castello 4237, caile degli Albanesi, in a lane behind the Doge's Palace.

SLEEP it off at the Locanda San Trovaso (041 277 1146, doubles (E125) Dorsoduro 1350, Fondamenta delle Eremite in one of the most charmmg areas of the city around the corner from Venice's last surviving squero (gondola yard): seven decent-sized rooms, in a style best described as minimalist chintz.

 

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